Questo è il racconto emozionale di una giornata di trekking alle tre cime trascorsa immersi nella natura a un passo dal cielo. Al termine troverete le indicazioni tecniche per organizzare al meglio la vostra escursione.
Un luogo incredibile dove terra e cielo sono uniti da tre entità quasi magiche che incutono timore, rispetto e curiosità. La meraviglia della natura e il suo farci sentire semplicemente inermi. Fare una escursione di trekking alle tre cime è un’esperienza che toglie il fiato
Impossibile pensare di visitare il Sud Tirolo senza prevedere la tappa al suo luogo simbolo per eccelenza: le Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
E così siamo arrivati fin quassù al parcheggio del rifugio Auronzo con il nostro camperone per il classico giro mozzafiato previsto per il giorno dopo.
Arriviamo poco dopo le 19.00 (nelle note tecniche capirete il perchè) e riusciamo a guadagnarci il posto in prima fila, vista vallata, vista mucche al pascolo, vista profili a pettine delle cime intorno a noi.
Azioni di rito: tavolino, sedie, speck, patatine, aperitivo e cin cin tra noi (un buon viatico in previsione del trekking alle tre cime di domani)
Questo è quello che facciamo come camperisti goderecci e che ti aspetti da ogni sosta, perlomeno dalle nostre.
Ma le cime di Levaredo sono decisamente quello che non ti aspetti.
Sono l’ampiezza senza confini della vallata che lo sguardo non riesce a raccogliere e ti fa quasi toccare con mano la varietà della vastità.
I colori dal tramonto all’alba.
Non il titolo del film di Tarantino, ma i colori infuocati da fine del mondo da questo angolo di indicibile Natura.
Il tramonto possente, dorato, indeciso se illuminare il contorno nero delle nuvole o quello bruno delle cime.
Un sole morente dietro nuvole e montagne che nel suo atto finale ti inchioda alla sua meravigliosa potenza.
E poi il cielo stellato più luminoso, davvero nero come uno sfondo di pece dal quale non credo di aver visto mai tante stelle tutte insieme (forse solo a Los Roques in Venezuela, ma questa è un’altra storia!)
La testa sempre più indietro perché la vista proprio non riesce a non cercare di cogliere questo puntiforme manto infinito.
E poi quell’alba fredda e pungente ma dai pastelli più intensi mai visti.
La sveglia alle 5.00 perché volevo esserci al momento del sole nascente
Il silenzio, camper ancora sonnacchiosi, solo qualche campanaccio in lontananza e i primi temerari escursionisti (tutte guide locali) che iniziano il loro percorso di trekking alle tre cime
Aria pungente che taglia il volto, che spazza i pensieri, annienta tutto e ti restituisce la meraviglia di fronte alle cime che si colorano di rosa e d’oro.
Il sentiero che diligentemente iniziamo a percorrere presto al mattino, questa volta prendendolo al contrario, in senso orario, per avere una nuova prospettiva su un panorama ormai familiare.
Alla destra le pareti alte altissime brulle e accecanti delle cime, a sinistra l’immensità, dentro di noi la voglia di viv ere ancora una volta il meraviglioso trekking alle tre cime, ormai il nostro percorso del cuore.
Guardiamo, scattiamo foto, video, stupore, meraviglia, fascino e riverenza…
Un cammino impegnativo fatto di salite, strettoie, scoscese e sdrucciolevoli discese in fila indiana e salite irte e da vertigine sotto i piedi.
Pianoro e malghe romantiche quasi ad ammorbidire il profilo severo dei tre padroni.
Il sole cocente, la polvere bianca, i sentieri lungo il crinale e quelli su in cima per chi discende direttamente da qualche stambecco. Si, tutto questo in qualche modo me lo aspettavo.
Ma non pensavo di rivivere lui, il Preikestollen! Si il mio spauracchio, il mio stupendo incubo che mi perseguita dopo averlo affrontato in Norvegia, quella volta che abbiamo incontrato anche Babbo Natale
La tremenda e insuperabile camminata che ti porta al pulpito del prete, questa falesia immensa la cui superficie piatta si erge a strapiombo su un fiordo con un salto di 604 metri.
Ora come allora non mi aspettavo di sentirmi persa di fronte a tanta sovrastante potenza della Natura.
Le Cime ti guardano con uno sguardo schiacciante, senza tregua e senza speranza.
Sollevi gli occhi, per godere di un briciolo di cielo azzurro che si fa spazio tra le irte vette, e ti senti sotto una pressa.
E allora vai e procedi, perché troppo vicino, troppo sotto, il richiamo del panico, il richiamo di questo vuoto, di questo totalmente grande e immenso rispetto a te è difficile da sostenere.
Poi quasi fuggi via veloce da tanta devastante bellezza, ma il richiamo del Bello, del Perfetto, dell’Immenso è più forte
E infine ti fermi, ti giri piano, fai un respiro, ti sforzi e forzi i tuoi limiti, le tue paure, i tuoi non detti, chiudi gli occhi e poi li apri e le guardi le 3 Cime e le respiri e le ammiri, le sfidi, le sostieni
Ti vincono di nuovo, ti riducono di nuovo a quello che sei, una formichina, tante piccole insignificanti formiche in fila indiana, che tanto si affannano, tanto corrono e camminano, ma sono solo formiche di fronte all’immensita’ del tutto di questa natura superba.
Le Tre Cime sono come guardiani severi e immutabili, imperiosi e inamovibili
Ma sono come 3 vecchi che con fierezza, e con eterna e bonaria superiorità hanno guardato questa formichina che io sono con accondiscendenza,
Tanto io andrò, io sarò felice di aver fatto questa incredibile camminata con piglio, fatica, gioia ed energia fino alla fine, io avrò lasciato il segno sul loro corpo
Ma per loro io sarò solo una delle tante formiche che sono passate e andranno.
Loro saranno lì a guardare e a non curarsi di niente e lasceranno che quel pezzo di cielo azzurro possa passare tra di loro ed essere respirato.
Una briciola di cielo con il sole, il loro sorriso per il nostro prossimo incontro.
Note tecniche:
Nel parcheggio del rifugio Auronzo si può dormire con il camper/van e auto e godersi tramonto e alba in alta quota.
?il costo è di 45€ a notte. È possibile pagare solo cash.
⚠️alert: salire dopo le 19.00 altrimenti fanno pagare 2 giorni.
?Solo Parcheggio – no servizi. In realtà il pagamento è a favore del consorzio che si occupa della gestione dei sentieri, non a scopo di lucro.
?Indirizzo: impostare ricerca Google maps su “Casello Parcheggio 3 Cime di Lavaredo”
?Il percorso dura circa 4 ore (fattibile sia in senso orario che antiorario)
?il circuito classico non presenta particolari difficoltà per i bambini. È comunque un percorso che richiede essere allenati perche’ impegnativo per lunghezza e pendenza in alcuni tratti
Rifugi: Auronzo, Pian di Cengia, Locatelli, Carducci
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