Worthersee: al mare in montagna

by Mariangela

Che la Carinzia fosse davvero intima questo lo si sa da un bel po’….

In realtà a me sfuggiva il senso di questa affermazione. Ero troppo giovane per ricordarmi questo famoso spot pubblicitario che inneggiava alla pulizia intima grazie al detergente Carinzia (… Fabio un po’ più agee di me mi ha fatto la battuta. E vedendo la mia faccia da punto interrogativo mi ha anche ricordato e spiegato l’amena pubblicità). Ma il vero motivo è che la Carinzia va conosciuta, assaporata e scoperta, lentamente, intimamente. Solo così ne capisci il senso. Ne cogli la bellezza. Potente e semplice.

E noi siamo venuti a scoprirla con il nostro camper. Da qui è partito il nostro viaggio tra il piacevole verde dell’Austria.

Entrata in Austria meridionale dal Tarvisio. Le linee morbide di montagne non sono ancora spigolose e irte. Il nostro sguardo si tranquillizza con verdi vallate, borghi disseminatI e tanti corsi d’acqua. Una zona dove il blù terso e intenso di laghi creano occasioni di pace, di divertimento, di relax, di scoperta.

Worthersee la nostra meta.

Un lago che sembra un lungo serpentone, stretto che incede morbido e sinuoso in questa vallata. Le sponde sembrano così vicine, disseminate da paesini alcuni pieni di animose urla di ragazzi e famiglie, altri dove il rumore silenzioso delle barche che arano l’acqua sembrano l’unico elemento di vita.

Partiamo da Klagenfur. L’area sosta è accogliente, adiacente al centro del paese. Per una manciata di euro tutti i servizi. Ci saluta un drago nella piazza principale del paese: sembra arrabbiato con le sue narici arricciate ancora fumanti. Ma non ci spaventa. Anzi il sorriso tenero di due sorelline sembra che lo pietrifichi. E allora noi novelli cavalieri su destrieri a due ruote partiamo per la nostra avventura.

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Lungo una via alberata che costeggia il canale della città ammiriamo case eleganti che si affacciano placide su alberi frondosi e verdi. Ecco il lago. Un bellissimo campeggio pieno di ragazzi e famiglie che si preparano ad una giornata calda con gommoni, sdraiette e unicorni da portare lungo i lidi di questo lago pulitissimo. Per gli Austriaci il vero paradiso delle vacanze e divertimento balneare. Per loro giornata in “spiaggia”. Per noi ci attende la bellissima ciclabile che costeggia il lago nord del lago. 25 km. La piccoletta di casa l’ultima volta che è andata in bici aveva ancora le rotelle: un battessimo di fuoco perfettamente riuscito. Cloe è una roccia, testarda, caparbia, creativa e forte. Brava piccoletta… siamo orgogliosi di te!

E pedaliamo liberi lungo questa meravigliosa stradina che fiancheggia il lago, passando tra canneti, paesini, tra ville mozzafiato dove ammiri la vita del lago che sa essere strepitosa, con un gruppo di amici, una grigliata, un lettino un moletto privato ed uno splash nel blu con i suoi riflessi turchesi!

IMG_7432

20180807_140553Sosta per picnic sul prato nel punto dove c’è una piccola lingua di terra che si prolunga in acqua. Qui il lago sembra strizzare l’occhiolino ad una spiaggia caraibica per il passaggio dal blu al turchese fino al bianco del fondale. Piccola pennichella, e poi una mega partita a scacchi! In realtà avrei dovuto scrivere una partita a scacchi mega perché le pedine sono giganti e per spostarle devi prenderle letteralmente in braccio! Alice sarà riuscita a dare scacco matto al suo papà?

Riprendiamo la pedalata. Siamo in Austria, ma è pur sempre agosto. Fa caldo. Un’insenatura. Ci fermiamo. Ma si dai… un’occhiata alla peperina di casa, ci spogliamo e praticamente in mutande e reggiseno ci buttiamo nel lago, caldo come un brodo, pulito come sorgente di montagna. Una nuotata a cagnolino. Ci rivestiamo praticamente bagnate. E via si riparte in bici. Ecco la libertà per me. Una condizione della testa, che da felicità.

Velden è il capolinea della ciclabile sul lato nord. Elegante cittadina molto viva con alberghi e casinò: un lungolago pieno di giovani famiglie e signore tutte imbellettate con il vestito migliore della festa… mi viene da dire che il casinò è ancora chiuso nel pomeriggio, ma poi non mi avrebbero capito nel mio inglese con influssi meridionali!

Per il ritorno ci concediamo il traghetto da Velden, che con le sue tante fermate nei vari paesini ci offre una diversa e lunga prospettiva della vita del lago. E’ quasi il tramonto. Alice si diverte con la sua macchina fotografica a immortalare qualunque particolare. Il vento caldo e piacevole tra i capelli. Il succo di una susina è dolce per la tua mano che mi sfiora il volto….

Una solitaria anatra si culla tra le piccole onde con la calma del tramonto. Il cielo si tinge di giallo e arancione. Una lingua di fuoco colora il lago, le montagne in lontananza si sfumano nel cielo.

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Non un luogo intimo. La Carinzia è un luogo magico…

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